Category: Malawi

Went to Mount Mulanje and the Zomba Plateau each for a night and then returned to Lake Malawi for a few days at Palm Beach and then at two other places further up the lake on the way to Tanzania. We were sad to leave Palm Beach having learned so much about Malawi from people there especially Sumanie. Without doubt the Malawians must be the friendliest people in Africa always keen to say hello. They are understandably proud of the hard won education they have received, only primary education is free. In Africa people stay in education for a long time (school days are much shorter). It is not unusual for them to be almost 30 by the time they complete a University degree.

Also visited the Nyika Plateau, an extraordinary landscape at 8,000 feet (hence a bit cooler than the Lakeside!) with bracken and wild flowers. There are some Roan Antelope and Eland here, Leopard are spotted rarely. We saw a large spotted Hyena here who insisted on posing for photos! The landscape is rolling hills and is managed by regular burning.

We spent 6 nights at Lake Malawi, one at Senga Bay, two at Cape Maclear and two at the aptly named Palm Beach. We went on a snorkelling trip around one of the lake islands from Cape Maclear and the boatmen (John & Simon, suitably biblical!) cooked fish for lunch, in this case Capango which was delicious with rice and a tomato sauce. We also had another local fish called Chombo which was very good too. The snorkelling was very good, there are no less than 800 species of mostly brightly coloured cyclid fish in the lake. Unfortunately the lake is being over-fished and stocks are being seriously depleted. The Malawi government is taking some measures but they seem very pretty ineffective. They need to take action soon or in a decade it maybe too late.

The owners of Palm Beach took us on a cruise down the lake on their pontoon where we saw Cape Clawless Otters (unfortunately no photos as I didnt have my camera with me!).

We were watched avidly by local kids at the lake. I took photos of them which they thought was great and I have agreed to send them to them via the watchman at the beach (who also wanted his photo taken!). We also met a charming Malawian called Suman (pronounced Sumanie) who spoke excellent English who acted as translator, procurer of wonderful sweet ripe Mangos (about 10p each) and told us lots about local life. He wanted a pair of shoes but even though he was my size unfortunately we didnt have a spare pair.

The Malawians were really charming people always keen to chat and very inquisitive. It was heart-breaking really as they have so little and so many problems with drought, lack of agricultural production and even massive corruption over food aid. Labour rates are very low, the barman at Palm Beach told us he gets paid around a pound a day for very long hours.

I had thought the Tsetse flies were a pest in Zambia but the ones around the Lake were huge with a bite to match! Insects in general are the least endearing feature of Africa!

We may return to the Lake on the way back from Mozambique for a few days.